Key West Fly Fishing

The last 6 days on the water have been about all you can ask for as a fishing guide. Seeing a tarpon open that big ass mouth and eat a fly never gets old to me. Sometimes I think it gets better every time I see it. Not once in the last 20 grabs (or 1000 grabs) could I say I’ve felt the least bit unimpressed, mellow, or even under control. In fact, it’s the opposite. Sometimes I get too excited. I think my clients would be better off if I could contain myself but every time I see a tarpon eat a fly I pretty much freak out….at times I hide it better than others, at times I loose my shit. The latter is far more common. And when they jump, what is it about seeing that huge sea creature launch itself into the air that drives us mad.

Early in the morning when we hook one right off the bat I find myself a touch more classy and dignified about the transaction. I still love it and think it’s the coolest thing in the world, but the times I really go nuts is when I’ve been pushing the boat into the wind for 9 hours, my dude has been trying as hard as he can all day, and finally the planets line up. The boat’s stopped, the cast is right, and the 120 pounder opens his mouth up and annihilates the fly. It’s like scoring a goal in the 91st min of the soccer game. And yes, this is normally when I become unglued. Laughter, perma-grin, angling nirvana. If I’ve managed to keep my cool past the eat the first jump gets me every time.

Well, John and I both have the day off and I’m meeting him at the ramp in 30min to put one in the air myself. Check out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74EQEuYuTFw

Jacob

As I sit here listening to the rain slap against the window in the stiff 30mph breeze and the temperature is droping nearly 30 degrees from the highs of yesterday, I can’t help but think about how spoiled I’ve become over the last few days. 

February is one of my favorite months in the Keys. When mother nature co-operates with unseasonably high temps and low winds this place comes alive like no other time of year. It’s a roll of the dice to trying to time this good weather to coincide with a trip. Some years the good weather never materializes and some years it lasts all month. For the last week it’s been like the Discovery Channel on steroids.

Two days ago on my way to the Marquesas, there where schools of mackerel shredding bait in the Boca Grande Channel. As we pulled up to the first flat inside Mooney Harbor, we saw the first permit tail of the day before I had even turned the motor off. I lost track of the number of shots we had but to put things into perspective, I didn’t change spots until around 1:30. I can already hear the comments that John and Drew will make about my next statement but . . . my client wanted to catch a cobia so I ran to a wreck about 7 miles west of the Marquesas. While no cobia were present, we did see something that was pretty amazing. About a dozen bull sharks, some over 300 lbs, circled the wreck as we floated over it. The sharks were mixed in with hundreds of cudas, a few small schools of permit, a huge jewfish, and thousands of other smaller snappers and jacks. The wreck was a sight to behold.

We headed back to the east side of the Marquesas and continued to permit fish when we saw the first school of tarpon rolling towards us. After switching rods, we began to get into position for a shot when we came across a monster sawfish, as long as my boat, with a small cobia following close behind. The last hours of the day where spent casting to schools of tarpon. Mostly big fish, between 60lbs and 120lbs, rolling, sliding, cruising, and eager to eat a well presented fly.

I won’t bore you with our numbers for the day. . . you wouldn’t believe me anyway.

Jacob

The fishing thus far this month has been almost everything that you could want for early February. The weather has been beautiful and the fish have responded. After a fairly typical January with almost weekly cold fronts moving through the area, February brought us warming temperatures and bright blue skies.

In fact, the weather has been so nice that it has had John and myself thinking of March and April. We have not been able to help ourselves and have had to check some spring time tarpon areas to see if some fish have been present. They have. While there haven’t been as many tarpon as there will be later in the spring, the sight of laid up tarpon holding and sliding in the current has us as giddy as school kids on the last day of class.

I checked for tarpon with Kris Williams of Boston early last week, after his buddy Graham had to leave after four days of chasing permit. Despite increasing winds we found a handful of fish in the first spot I checked. After a few shots to get familiar with the game, Kris connected solidly with a fat 120lb fish, landing his first tarpon. Unfortunately he had to catch an afternoon flight and the day was a short one. I had the next couple of days off and gladly took my parents, who were in town, out to chase some early season tarpon. Dad took his rightful place on the bow making great shots in the 20 knot wind. The first day we had three fish eat, catching two, on 12-15 shots. Both of the fish that we landed were in the 120-130lb range. The second day, a little windier than the day before, didn’t bring us as good of fortune. There were fish around but they just didn’t want anything to do with our best presentations.

Of course with the warming weather permit have been a primary focus. The beautiful weather also coincided with the new moon on the 6th of the month. This brought much better current flows and water levels that the permit can’t get enough of. While the permit fishing has been fairly dependable this winter, in the past week it has been exceptional. I had the chance to fish with Paul Shahinian of New Jersey for a couple of beautiful days late last week. On the first morning we fished a strong incoming tide getting multiple shots at singles and groups of fish working the flats. We caught two permit in the 10-15lb range. As the wind slackened my mind again went to tarpon, so we ran into the backcountry to tangle with some ‘poons. Unfortunately, the tarpon didn’t realize this was the plan and the fish we found had lock jaw. We finished the day fishing for tailers on the Gulf getting several great shots but no takers. Lesson learned - don’t leave fish to find fish. Duh.

Due to my poor decision the first day we decided to focus strictly on permit the second day. The wind was light but the fish were active. The first spot we hit, we had 12-15 shots at actively feeding and tailing groups of fish. We briefly came tight to one before the fly pulled out of its mouth. Although not as good, the midday fishing was dependable as we got several shots at every spot we fished. The late afternoon, however, was epic. At the final spot of day we were greeted by large, tailing permit. The fish were tailing so aggressively that they would often throw water several feet in the air as they rooted for crabs. The fish, many in the 20-25lb class, were on high alert in the 18-24 inch water. The shallow, falling tide in combination with light winds and bright blue skies made the fish especially wary, but the numbers of fish and what they were doing made it a memorable afternoon. Although we didn’t get one, as I ran back to the dock I couldn’t keep the smile off of my face.

February always seem to be a special month. When you hit the weather right it can provide all of the great fishing that you expect later in the spring. However, it always seems to be a game of give and take. After a cold front Sunday, the wind has been 25-30 knots and the next couple of days are supposed to be rainy with occasional thunderstorms. In fact, I just heard the first rumble of thunder this year. Luckily, warmer weather is (hopefully) not far off and the fishing we had this week will become more and more commonplace. I for one can’t wait to consistently start tangling with laid up fatties.

Drew

BRRRR!  

We have just been hit by a major cold front, with 30kt winds, highs in the 50’s and night temps in the 40’s.  It does not get much colder than this.  Needless to say the fishing has shut down.  Hell it’s so cold, it almost makes the fishing of just a few days ago seem like a mirage.

Before this front, our weather had been spectacular.  Blue skies, E or SE winds, and warm humid air; perfect conditions for winter time permit fishing.  I would love to say I had been out there wearing them out, but that would be an untruth.  I, like most everyone else, spent the last half of December entertaining out of town family members and enjoying the holiday season.  Sometimes it is nice to have a little time off the water.

Still, I was very excited to get back on the water, and Rob Clark from CA gave me the perfect excuse.  We fished two days, on the 30 and 31st, and enjoyed spectacular weather, and good fishing.   We spent the 30th targeting permit.  A falling tide on the Gulf gave us some early shots at backing permit, but a long run to the west of Key West gave us fish.  Here we fished the last of the flood thru the fall.  With the exception of a slow couple of hours around mid-day (hey I hadn’t fished in awhile) we were into fish all day.  The highlight of the day, a 10lb fish that chased down an aggressively stripped merkin knock-off, was Rob’s first permit on fly.  We finished the day with a 6lb bonefish and numerous shots at hard-tailing permit. 

Not to be outdone that day, Drew and his client, Court Ramsay of Lafayette, Louisiana, caught a pig of a bone in the backcountry. The broad shouldered fish made the 12lb mark easily.

The last day of 2007 greated Rob and I with 77 degree air temps and slick calm conditions.  I couldn’t help myself, I had to go tarpon fishing.  At our first two stops , we were greated with numerous rolling tarpon.  Even better, these were big fish (60-100+).  While many single were rolling around, we only targeted the schools, some of which held 50 or more fish.  Unfortunately, luck was not on our side.  We came tight to three fish, but none managed to stay on for more than a moment. 

By 10:30 the wind kicked up a touch, the sun came out, and the conditions were perfect.  Again, I couldn’t help myself.  We fished six areas for laid up fish, and found them in three.  With the blue skies and laid-up fatties, it felt like April.

We finished off our day targeting tailers.  While not as crazy as the night before, there were enough to get excited about.  By the end of the day, we still hadn’t managed to get a fish in the boat. (Sorry Rob, a Lane Snapper doesn’t count).  Still, there aren’t many better ways to go fishless than this.

Happy New Year All.  I hope we can share a boat sometime.

John

Summer has definitely settled on the Lower Florida Keys this month. With the so called “summer doldrums” the fishing can be a bit of a roller coaster ride. One day fish will be everywhere the next they can be difficult to find and feed. Tides are critical this time of the year, the strong flows associated with the new and full moon bring cooler, more oxygenated water to the flats making the fish happier and often more agressive. August, being one of the slower months (business wise), typically provides us with a lot of opportunities to enjoy some time on the bow of the skiff.

The bonefishing this month has been, for the most part, nothing short of outstanding. Good numbers of strong, fat fish have frequented backcountry banks on both incoming and falling tides greedily feeding across the flats. We have had several mornings of catching at least four fish and loosing several others. Most of the fish have been in the 5-8 lb range, with some larger fish including a personal best 14 lb midday tailer that I caught earlier this month. The fly pattern has not been particularly important as long as it is appropriately weighted to stay in the fish’s feeding zone.

The permit fishing has been a little disappointing. Some days there are good numbers and a few days later on a “better” tide they are scattered and spooky. John and I experienced just that last Monday despite near perfect tides and wind. The permit seemed to be concentrated in small areas, certainly not widespread, and the fish were very unsettled. The fish that we found were quickly cruising and when they did feed and mud they would quickly pick up and start moving again showing very little interest in our offerings. Hopefully the fish will return to their normal late summer pattern as we get into September and October.

The tarpon fishing, epecially in the backcountry, has been a very consistent fishery. Lots of juvenile fish in the 10-30lb range have been swimming the edges of basins and banks and holding under the shade of overhanging mangroves. John, depsite windy conditions, found a good shrimp hatch yesterday getting numerous bites and putting some fish in the air. Additionally, at the end of the day he found several toads laid up in a secluded cove and his angler managed to coax a hundred pounder into biting and giving a brief showing of its magnificent power.

While the fishing has been inconsistent at times this month, for the most part it has held its own and provided us with some great fish and memories. The past several days have given us clues that fall is not too far away. The sun is getting a little lower in the sky, the humidity is down and the wind has been out of the east to northeast. As fall begins to take a grip, the permit and bonefish will become main targets.

Capt Drew

Hello everyone.  Today was a break in the normal fishing routine.  Being the last wednesday in July, it marked the beginning of Sportsman mini-season; a recreational spiny lobster season.  For you non-Floridians, this is when seemingly half of South Florida visits the Keys in what is essentailly a wild west-style free for all.  Two days of diving, snorkeling, bad boating, bad ettiquete, and good eating.  With the immense boating pressure, flats fishing is out of the question.  If you can’t beat them, join them… right?  So Drew, myself and mutual friend Capt Shane Wood (a hard working and talented first year flats guide) set out at sunrise to see if we couldn’t catch a few “bugs” ourselves.  My one “spot”, which was unoccupied, provided us with our limit (6 lobsters per person) in 40 minutes. Safe and sound and back at the dock in less than two hours. 

I know, enough with the lobstering.  What about the fishing?  I just finished up a four day charter with Charles Smid from Moose, Wyoming.  He wanted to target only large tarpon (50+lb) and he had consistent success during his run of charters (he fished four days with Drew prior to our days together).  He jumped nine fish and caught nine more with at least as many missed eats.  His fish ranged from 100lb pigs to 30lb babies.  In our first two days of fishing, Charles and I started each morning in large basins throwing gurglers to tarpon actively feeding on juvenile triggerfish (I swear that this is not BS).  A.M. falling tides and slick mornings are the recipe for these July hatches.  You have not lived until you see a 100lb fish catapult out of the water to eat a tiny gurgler.  It is AWESOME.  Afternoons poling similar basins provided good fishing to large single laid-up fish and shots at schools of aggressive 30-50lb poons.  A shift in A.M. tides ended our hatch fishing and forced us to pole ocean swim lanes looking for the last of the migrants and the lonely locals.  There are never a lot of these fish around this time of year, but patience/perseverance pays as they are willing eaters.  20-30 shots in a day is a reasonable expectation, and that is what Charles and I experienced.  Our last afternoon, we encountered a small push of fish with the beginning of a flood tide at the Southwest corner of the Marquesas.  Two 50lb fish in an hour was a great way to end the trip.

Well, I’d better go.  Its time to spin up a few permit flies for this week’s moon tides and crack open a cold beer in anticipation for the meal of grilled lobster tails and deep fried lobster nuggets.

 ’Til next time,

Capt John

We have seen a change in the fishing since last reporting at the end of last month. The numbers of big tarpon have begun to dwindle, but the permit fishing has been getting steadily better. While there are still some large tarpon both swimming and laid up, the numbers that we were seeing even as recently as two weeks ago have declined. However, the baby tarpon fishing has helped fill in the slack created by the departure of their bigger brethern. Many of the edges that hold them in the summer are filling up and they can be found rolling and holding in the shadows of their mangrove lairs. Additionally, the permit fishing has been very good. The fish have been tailing, mudding and cruising and suprisingly relaxed given the calm weather we have experienced the past couple of weeks.

This past week I fished with Tomonori Higashi, Tomohide Kashiwagi both of Japan and Bernard Ramanauskas, cane fly rod builder extradonaire. They rotated and shared bow time throughout the week primarily chasing tarpon. Although the main target of some late season giants proved difficult, we managed to jump or catch fish from 120lbs down to 15lbs (most in the 20-50 range). I definitely enjoyed the week, but certainly had hoped for better numbers of big fish. Hopefully next year.

I did get the opportunity a couple of weeks ago to fish an afternoon with my Dad, Jim, and borther-in-law, Alex Neubauer. Despite getting on the water after five o’clock we managed to catch one tarpon about 130lbs, have two more eat (three shots total) and catch 3 bonefish. It was the first time I had looked for evening tailers and they were moving in waves across some of my favorite gulf side flats. Hopefully it is a sign of things to come this summer. The two photos are from that evening.

Capt Drew

Since John last wrote on the first of this month, the weather has definitely made a change for the better. What had been a cool year, did a quick 180 and quickly became summer. I couldn’t be happier. We have been blessed with light winds and hot temperatures and the fish have responded. The fish have been in their usual haunts, laying up in shallow basins and cruising the Atlantic fish lanes. Some days you simply stop the boat and the fish quickly have you surrounded. With the summer-like conditions I have found sporadic shrimp and guppy hatches. The fish have been attacking the stunned bait and any fly placed in their path.

Last week I fish with Ken Linde from Oregon. Almost everyday was calm conditions although some days the clouds made spotting fish difficult. He caught a number of fish that ranged from around 100lbs to 30lbs, often in the same areas. We spent the majority of time looking for laid up singles and pods, but occasionally made the run to the ocean when the tide was just right.

The recent fishing has definitely been better than most of the season, but still not just fantastic. As we move into summer and the boats continue to thin out, hopefully the fishing will last and there will be plenty of big fish to chase without any other fishing pressure. As we move into July the focus will still be on tarpon, but bonefish and permit will definitely start getting more and more attention.

Capt Drew

This previous week has given us a multitude of different weather conditions. Last monday the wildfires to the north of us, tried to choke us with smoke. In fact, at times it was difficult to see across backcountry basins much less spot a tarpon in the soup. Tuesday we awoke to strong thunderstorms and heavy rains, but for those that had the determination the fishing was worth the effort. The rest of the week brought us typical May conditions; partly cloudy, winds about 10mph and good numbers of happy tarpon. And now as I write this I can hear the wind blowing outside and showers are passsing by.

I spent the majority of my time last week working backcountry bars and edges and fishing oceanside basins. I tried to avoid the madhouse that the ocean can be at times in May. I had the pleasure of fishing Don Wood and Justin Martin. We had several good days getting multiple bites, putting a good number of fish in the air and landing a majority of those hooked. While there are not huge numbers of fish in the back, the solitude and aggressiveness of the fish has been worth the hard work. On some edges we would pole and pole and finally have a couple of shots, but often both shots would be rewarded with at least an eat and often a big fish in the air. This is my favorite type of fishing. Others can have the huge numbers of fish (and boats) currently swimming the ocean. I would rather have happy fish and see almost no other boats (other than John).

This past weekend I returned to my roots and fished west of Key West for the first time this season. I fished a lot of my old haunts, splitting time between hunting for laid up pods and looking for the sliders on the oceanside. The fishing was just like I remembered and it was a nice change of pace. I believe we had about 10 bites and caught a couple of bright, spunky fish. Although it was a couple of weeks late, May and its good fishing seem to finally be here. The fish are eating better and the consistensy that we all know and love this time of the year has finally arrived.

Capt Drew

The Southwest Florida wildfires have added an erie element to our calm waters.  The last week we have been greeted each morning with little or no winds, but our clear skies have been filled with blankets of wildfire smoke.  You would think we were fishing Montana in August.  Despite the smoke clouds the fishing has been better than average.  The poons are swimming well along the Lower Keys Atlantic lanes. For those willing to play the numbers game, they have been eating, but 95% of the fish swim by showing little interest in even our best presentations.  Personally, I can only take so much rejection, and have been spending as little time as possible fishing for these swimmers.  Most of my time has been spent hunting backcountry corners looking for little pockets of fish that have decided to quit swimming and spend a little time here.  Most of these corners have been near empty, but when you find the fish, it is worth the wait.

Steve Schimdt of Western Rivers Outfitters and friend Ken Louder put up with hours of such “fishing” and were rewarded with two afternoons of spectacular fishing.  We were not fishing a “top secret” area, but nonetheless found the edge to ourselves.  It wasn’t the numbers that were so impressive (there were a ton of fish though), but rather what the fish were doing.  Every fish was big, high in the water column, often with tails out of the water, and very shallow.  Many of our shots were at fish laid-up and sliding fish in only a couple of feet of water.  On top of this the fish themselves were unusually bright many with distinct orange and pink tails.  Beautiful fish and fishing.  Our last two days yielded 12 or so “bites” with only a hadful of fish in the air (three for those keeping score).  This doesn’t sound like much, but there was something about how we were fishing that left us all feeling like rockstars at the end of the day.  Fun stuff.

Well, tomorrow i am off looking for exactly the opposite thing.  I’m off to find the thundering herd in the Marquesas.  I will let you know how it goes.

 Capt John